MurLock Ball Vlv 1/2ctsx1/2ctsx1/2tube

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MurLock Ball Vlv 1/2ctsx1/2ctsx1/2tube Today, boat owners and builders have choices in the materials that their through-hull fittings are made of. In the old days, bronze was pretty much your only choice MurLock Ball Vlv 1/2ctsx1/2ctsx1/2tube . Today, Marelon and even stainless-steel are available. For most of us the choice is made by the boatbuilder, but if you’re considering a major refit, material selection is up to you, and MurLock Ball Vlv 1/2ctsx1/2ctsx1/2tube everyone will offer up different opinions on this topic. Hard-core old-timers typically won’t accept anything less than what they consider a “proper” bronze through-hull fitting, regardless of purpose, yet despite the scare stories, there is a huge number of builders that have no qualms about using alternatives.

Marelon, is a polymer composite, rather than a simple plastic, and is Underwriters Lab approved, as well as British Standards approved ((BS) EN ISO 9093-2). Made by Forespar, Marelon fittings were even put to the test to see if they would melt in an engine fire. In a test, one of their smaller Marelon valves used for gasoline fuel system shut-off was tested to the fire test requirements mandated by the US Coast Guard. This involves temperatures up to a maximum of 1275°F (690°C), after which there were no leaks evident through the unit. The material also meets BS EN ISO 9093-2 standards, which contain heat tests.

It’s not worth spending too much time worrying about Marelon fittings melting.

There have been reports of Marelon valves sticking and people forcing the handles so hard that they broke. Well, whether a seacock valve is bronze or Marelon, maintenance is still required. Periodic lubrication will eliminate the sticky valve problem. Some say it should be done every six months. I’ve found that once a season works well for me in the north-eastern US.

For the old-style tapered bronze valves, it’s a good idea to disassemble the units when the boat gets hauled and perform a thorough cleaning and lube with a high-quality waterproof grease – the sort of stuff you might use for boat-trailer wheel bearings. Lewmar winch grease also works fine. These old-style seacocks are great in that they can be completely disassembled for a truly thorough cleaning. But if you ignore maintenance, especially in salt water, you might have to use a sledghammer (as I have) to get the handles to move. With that kind of force any valve handle, whether bronze or Marelon, is liable to break.

For ball-valve type seacocks, whether Marelon or metal, with the boat on the hard, remove the hose attached to the valve and get a paint brush that will fit into the valve. Using the same waterproof grease just mentioned, load up the paint brush with the grease and insert it into the valve pushing down onto the valve ball. Work the handle back and forth so that the surfaces of the ball get coated with the grease.

METAL VALVES: BRONZE OR STAINLESS

As rugged and sturdy as these valves and fittings may be, because they are made of metal they can be vulnerable to both galvanic and electrolytic corrosion. Metal fittings that are never exposed to low-level electrical leakage, whether in the boat’s bilge water or the water the boat is floating in, can last for decades without incident. But exposure to any form of stray DC current makes these fittings vulnerable to greatly accelerated corrosion. I’ve seen extreme damage occur in as little as 48 hours. So, electrically bonding the fittings that live below your boat’s waterline is always advisable.

Additionally, I’ve been involved in several cases where the actual metal alloy used in making the valves and fittings was determined to be sub-par, and accelerated corrosion was the net result. One manufacturer was involved in a major recall of their seacocks a few years back, and the truth is th

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